Another question that comes up regularly is “should I blip the throttle on downchanges?”
I went away an analysed what I did, after a previous discussion on this topic. It’s not that I don’t “blip” but I don’t do BIG blips.
It’s a bit complex because there are a bunch of loosely interlocking issues.
First, I don’t block change (where you shift several gears at the same time) all that often – on the move, I prefer sequential shifting (where you shift gear one gear at a time) because I’m then always in a gear that will deliver drive, which seems to me to be the indicator of “right gear”. The usual reason that block changing gets suggested is that it’s quicker – but I’m not on a track trying to shave the odd second off my lap time, so I don’t buy that reason. By implication, if you save all your gear changes for whatever hazard it is that requires a lower gear, by implication you’re in the wrong gear until the last moment; given that situations can change very suddenly, this could present a major problem on the road. Sequential shifting is more likely to ensure a riders avoids getting caught in the wrong gear; it doesn’t guarantee your choice will be spot on, but you should be more or less right!
Second, even though I tend to use the brakes to slow rather than rely on engine braking, that doesn’t mean I can’t shift down through the gears one at a time as I decelerate. I certainly won’t force the bike to decelerate on the gears by forcing it down through the gearbox – I’ll only use engine braking if it can be done in the gear I’m already in – otherwise it’s brakes to slow and shift gear as required as I decelerate. Again, to my mind, that’s appropriate use of the brakes, as well as preparing me better for anything unexpected around the corner which may need a sudden reduction in speed.
Third, I don’t “blip” when shifting in the way that many riders do that sends the revs shooting up. Again, on the road there’s no real need for that, particularly with modern bikes with close ratio gearboxes. It’s a hangover from classic bikes that often had just four widely spaced gears! I just very gently tweak the throttle, get the revs up 1000/2000 or so rpm and shift smoothly with minimal fuss and noise.
Four, I use the clutch to ease the transition whether I’m block- or sequential shifting, letting it out over a couple of seconds, rather than dumping it straight away. Again, this is probably easier because I’m not relying on engine braking and so it doesn’t matter if the clutch is disengaged – the bike is still slowing. It makes for a very smooth change on everything I’ve ridden, with the possible exception of a 1980s Guzzi! It also allows me to “feel” that I’ve selected the right gear when changing down several gears at once – it is possible when block shifting to go down too low and a slow release of the clutch will allow you to feel this before things get too interesting.
For a newish rider, I’d recommend you shift each gear then release the clutch (slowly for a smooth change!), because it helps you feel exactly how the engine is working, and avoids sudden deceleration loads on the rear tyre.
The danger of shifting more than one gear at a time is that the engine delivers too much braking, the revs go sky high, and you can skid the rear tyre. This is most likely if you shift to first by accident. With a bit of experience, it’s relatively easy to feel the distinctively different shift into 1st, and either re-select second or ease the clutch out smoothly to avoid the sudden stop!
Also most bikes are generally reluctant to keep shifting down without letting the clutch out a bit to spin the gearbox internals over between gears. If you don’t let the clutch out to “feel” what the engine is doing, it’s possible to tap on the lever with nothing happening, and end up in a higher gear than the one you thought you were in, so you don’t have any drive when you need it. Going down a gear at a time and letting the clutch out avoids this.
I also use the clutch on upchanges, incidentally. I can’t see the point of clutchless shifts. Any “time” gain is irrelevant on the road, it doesn’t wear out the clutch and because you unload the drive chain downstream of the clutch it just has to be easier on the gearbox internals.
